Thursday, 31 January 2013

I'm off to sunny South Africa

I will be in sunny South Africa for most of February.

Yay. Sunshine, temperatures in the high twenties, long white deserted beaches, cheap fruit, friends, family, Afrikaans, earthy humour, crazy drivers, bad service, slow internet, chaos, crime and corruption! I can't wait!

I'm not being facetious. I think I've become way too complacent in Japan. You see, third-world countries …

Oh, I know I should be politically correct and refer to them as developing countries, but to hell with that. I need to practice blunt speech now that I'm going back. SA is a banana republic. It just happens to be exceptionally beautiful and relatively more efficient than other banana republics in Africa.

Anyway, you see, life in a banana republic has its own joys: energy, vitality, unpredictability, spontaneity, madness, laughter, creativity, warmth, no rules, no restrictions, no manners, danger, excitement, adrenaline.

SA is not a safety country, but it's my home, and it's good to be going back.

Beautiful Cape-Dutch architecture in Stellenbosch

I haven't been to SA for three years. I used to resent trips back home, mostly due to the expensive airline ticket and the hideously long journey: 26 hours of economy hell, a total of 36 hours from door to door. This time, though, I'm looking forward to it. I haven't enjoyed a summer in South African for many years.

I will stay in a small coastal town called Kleinmond, which is near a bigger town called Hermanus. That part of South Africa is called the Whale Coast. It's a breeding ground for the southern right whale, which makes it one of the best whale-viewing spots in the world.

You will understand why I don't tell random strangers in Kleinmond that I live in whale-hunting&munching Japan. (Let me state for the record: if a species isn't endangered, I see no reason why it can't be eaten. There's no moral distinction between killing a dumb cow, a cute bunny and a majestic whale. Personally I eat no seafood, and meat perhaps once a fortnight and only when dining out; but if you want to eat McDonalds or whale sashimi every day, どうぞ!)

Kleinmond is also famous for its fynbos. The so-called Cape Floral Kingdom, the smallest of the world's six floral kingdoms, covers only 0.5% of the area of Africa but is home to nearly 20% of the continent’s flora.

Proteas in Kleinmond

So this time I'm taking my big camera with me. I want to take photos of our beaches, our flowers, our food. I won't be able to see whales – wrong season for that – but I might be able to snap a fairly huge human. There are plenty in SA.

I'm going to go offline this coming weekend. I won't access the web while I'm gone. Sometimes real life is more important than the virtual world, and anyway, the internet in SA is so slow that it turns me into a gibbering wreck within ten minutes. That's how long it takes for Google's home page to load.

I'm also going to disable comments before I leave, because I'm sick of the vile spam comments I've been getting.

Totsiens, almal. Goodbye, all. Stay warm, and talk to you again … I dunno when … I'm already on Africa time!

I don't have good photos of my home-home, because I've never lugged my big camera halfway around the world, but here goes:

The coastal road from Cape Town to Kleinmond

Kleinmond's beach, with Table Mountain far away in the distance

Table Mountain again, this time from the vineyards above Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch: blue sky, blue mountains

Also lots of vineyards and damn good wine!

University of Stellenbosch

Lanzerac, a Stellenbosch wine farm that was established in 1692

This map shows you where I grew up: the Western Cape of South Africa. I was born in Worcester, studied in Stellenbosch, worked in Cape Town, then lived in Johannesburg for several years and finally returned to Stellenbosch. After I moved to Japan, my oldest sister, her family and my mother moved to Kleinmond. That's where I will spend most of my holiday.


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69 comments:

  1. Is this post comment disabled yet? No?

    I'll try my luck. :)

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    1. No, not yet. ^^ Probably by Saturday-ish.

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    2. I want in too! Bon voyage! I am so excited for you, Ru. Safe travel!

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    3. Thanks, HappySurfer! I've pre-booked my seats and my vegetarian dinner on-line, and I'm ready to go! :D

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  2. Safe travel and all that.

    We'll be lonely withouit you in February.

    Do take lots and lots and lots of photos (dogs included) during your say back home + all the long walks you'll do. :)

    p.s. you should've eased yourself into third world country by dropping by Malaysia first, y'know. ;p

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    1. I actually looked at going via Malaysia, but my budget is too limited. :(

      (Incidentally, you know what pisses me off royally?! The yen was so high for such a long time, and now that I need to exchange it to rand, what does it do? Kaboom ↓ it drops! Alamak!)

      I'll take lots of photos, and I'm planning a special trip to Bo-Kaap, the Cape Malay quarter of Cape Town, so that I can bore you with food photos and arbitrary historical detail. I might surprise you with a Twitter photo or two ...

      Happy running and all that! ;)

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  3. Did I spot the word "Alamak" in one of your replies? hehehehe :P

    Happy Holidays!
    Looking forward to more photos of your holiday. Some food posts maybe? :)

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    1. You Malaysians have corrupted me with your language lah!

      Definitely food posts, including Cape Malay food! ^^

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    2. Let's look at it this way... There is a Japanese equivalent: arama... Right? :-)

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    3. リナ、そうです!Yup, indeed. ^^

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    4. you know I don't do Japanese. ;p

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  4. I'm looking forward all the beautiful photos you're gonna capture in your hometown.

    Don't be stingy to share them all and nope, I won't be bored browsing them :)

    Till then, have a safe journey, Ru!

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    1. Thanks, Y! Expect beaches, mountains, flowers ... and glasses of wine! ;)

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    2. How many cartons of wine are you exporting from SA into Japan? ;)

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    3. Dunno about wine, but I'm definitely bringing back Amarula!

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  5. Look forward to your posts on South Africa when you get back! Have a great trip and safe flight!

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    1. Oh.. and considering today is the last day of the month... it will definitely be right to say "Happy Birthday!" or "happy belated birthday!" ^^

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    2. Thanks and thanks, Cubie! You'll probably see photos of a belated birthday beach party, too. :)

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  6. Have a safe trip back home and we look forward to hearing about your trip :)

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    1. Thanks, J.A.! I'm going to take photos of Castle Lager just for you! :p

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    2. Thank you! Have one or two for me as well :)

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    3. How about three or four? ;)

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  7. いってらっしゃい! Safe (relatively) travels! We'll miss you and think jealously of all the beautiful views and delicious foods you're having. Looking forward to oodles and oodles of photos and stories when you're back, and a night or two of drunken debauchery!

    And HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

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    1. Thanks, Sarah! You can bet on that drunken debauchery while I entertain you with stories of my African Adventures! :D

      "It was often said (in other families) that long ago one of the Took ancestors must have taken a fairy wife. That was, of course, absurd, but certainly there was still something not entirely hobbitlike about them, and once in a while members of the Took-clan would go and have adventures ... "

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  8. yay yay! :) just a warning - the drivers are crazier than ever these days :) xx

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    1. You do realize, don't you, that you've been preselected to take me to the Bo-Kaap?

      Djy sal vi' my soentoe moet vat, ne? Djy en djou se ma-goed. (I think I'm now mixing Cape Afrikaans and Namaqualand Afrikaans, ma' moetie worry nie.)

      See you soon! xxx

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    2. hahaha :) Bo-Kaap, of all places? Let's do it! Daar is 'n nuwe fancy coffee shop (Haas) wat ek nog wil besoek. Ons kan Woodstock ook doen? xx

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    3. Haas? OK, but do they have macarons?!

      The only koek&tee-plek that I really want to visit is a certain private kitchen where very cute cupcakes are created! ;)

      Ja-, Bo-Kaap. I've met (in a virtual way) several bloggers in Malaysia, and I really want to share our Cape-Malay culture with them.

      Woodstock? We're going slumming? Or has Woodstock been gentrified? I hope it hasn't lost all its grittiness. Ek het mos vir 'n kort tydjie (net 'n paar maande) vir 'n bemarkingskonsultant in die Old Castle Brewery gewerk.

      Ooo. Koek&tee. Hou vas; hier gaat ons! xxx

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    4. Ja-, ???

      Nuwe Afrikaanse konstruksie. :p

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  9. Have a great holiday. I loved the short time I spent in South Africa two years ago. In 10 days there, while I heard many people talk about dangers, I never felt or saw anything dangerous myself. All the people I met were really cool. But as you said, it`s easy to become complacent after a long time in Japan.

    Thank you for all the wonderful posts.

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    1. Thanks, Tom! :) I think safety in SA depends a great deal on your location and on your own precautions. Yes, we all have burglar bars and armed response, but we haven't had gun shoot-outs in Kleinmond's streets yet.

      Err ... have we?! Maybe at the ATM at the local petrol station? (@_@)

      Enjoy Akiba's craziness and the plum blossoms on my behalf while I'm gone! ^^

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  10. Before the comments get turned off, let me wish you a good, safe, fun trip!
    Sounds like it's an adventure just trying to get there.
    Enjoy the whale watching!

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    1. Thanks, Blukats! ^^

      Sir Frances Drake noted many centuries ago that "there was no fairer cape in the whole circumference of the globe" than the Cape of Good Hope (at Cape Town). I'm going just halfway around the globe this time, but at the end of the journey ... the fairest cape of them all. Happiness. :)

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  11. Replies
    1. I'm going to miss the interaction with bloggers around the world, but not to worry, you'll read long sagas when I get back! Meantime, enjoy the peace and quiet! (^0^)

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  12. Hi,Rurosha
    Have a safe trip and enjoy your home town! I have found the location of kleinmond on the map. Lovely to see the town surrounded by the beautiful landscape!
    Tomoko

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    1. Thanks, Tomoko-san! It's a very different kind of beauty - wilder, more rugged, more austere than Japan - but I'll do my best to capture it in photos for you! ^^

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  13. Good trip I'm looking forward to coming back Japan and reading your trip.

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    1. Thanks, Cocomino! I'll do my best to show my fellow bloggers what life in SA is like. Lekker! :)

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  14. Veilige reis! Wishing you a safe and pleasurable journey.

    I will look for a Stellenbosch wine (probably Pinotage) and then toast to you thinking warm thoughts.

    By the way, how are the chiropractors in your neck of the woods? (Speaking of necks that might need gentle adjusting. A recommendation from a trusted acquaintance would be mandatory.)

    It is fascinating that this area which is like home to you looks to me like a kind of hybrid alien landscape.

    Your information about the Cape Floral Kingdom is mind-boggling. Those figures: 5% of area, 20% of plant species—are astounding enough, and when I first saw those flower photos I thought, “Oh, so that is where those beautiful quirky flowers Protea come from!” Then I saw that they and the region have linkages to Gondwana!—part of the ancient supercontinent of Pangea. I thought Japanese history went back quite a ways but you have direct connections (the flora, for example) that go back 300 million years!

    There is an area along the coast of California called Big Sur that some people, because of its specialness and isolation, have called Gondwanaland. But you have lived in the real deal!

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    1. Thanks, Gary!

      Oh but I'm the queen of Gondwanaland! Didn't you know that? :D

      Yes, my country is very, very, very old. Some of the oldest human fossils have been found in SA; as a matter of fact, we have a world heritage site (up north) called the Cradle of Humankind.

      You could write ten blogs about the Cape's fynbos. Unfortunately I have bad memories of the flowers as well: man, did I use to get hay fever in that area! (>_<)

      Talking of wine, some of the best wineries in SA are near Hermanus in a valley called Hemel-en-Aarde, i.e. Heaven and Earth. Isn't it a lovely name? ^^ Take a look at Hamilton Russell Vineyards and Bouchard Finlayson.

      Expect more wine stories when I get back!

      PS: Chiropractors? No, I would never trust a chiropractor with my kind of spinal injury. I prefer physio, and acupuncture has also helped a lot.

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  15. Oh dear 36 hours door to door is a long wait. Be patient and happy waiting at transit, custom, immigration, boarding lounge and etc. In case you are bored snap pixz of the ceiling your neck needs all the exercise. Pleasant journey.

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    1. Thanks, Bananaz! Your advice made me laugh ... and then I realized it's damn good advice!

      I'll take books, do neck exercises and do my best to be a polite Japanese traveller. ^^ If all else fails, I'll just drink a lot! :p

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  16. Enjoy time with loved ones!

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    1. Thanks, Lisa! I'm really looking forward to seeing my mother again. She's a grand old lady.

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  17. Have a fabulous trip home!

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    1. Thanks, Amy! I hope I don't meet any aliens while I'm there! :p

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  18. いってらしゃい!I also am looking forward to seeing pics of South Africa. Have a safe trip! And a safe return as well.

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    1. Thanks, Ern! I'll make a special point of taking beer shots and bookshop photos for you! ;)

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  19. Have fun!! I hope you have a lovely time back home, eat lots and LOTS of food (is SA cheese any good?!) and enjoy the sunshine!

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    1. Thanks, Susie! Cheese! Wheee! Another thing to think of when that flight gets unbearable. "Hang in there, Ru, there's cheese at the end of the rainbow ... " We've got great cheese, and many wineries offer superb cheese-and-wine lunches.

      PS: Maybe I should take a few fat clothes with me ...

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  20. Just one thing, "safety country"? I think you have been in Japan too long if you are using safety as an adjective. ;) Don't worry, I have done the same many times before.

    Have a safe trip. Hope the warm weather gives you a good tan (assuming you can tan and not just burn). I'll keep up on the evils that is Twitter, if you even do that. You have a lot of blog catching up to do when you do get back though. I guess I can enjoy the peace and quiet for a bit when you leave ;) j/k

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    1. "Safety country" was used very deliberately! :D You think I should put it in quotation marks to protect my reputation as copy-editor? :)

      Can I tan?! What a question to ask a tough tannie from Africa! My tender white skin got beaten into submission by Africa's fierce sun a looong time ago, and several years in sun-phobic Japan have not changed that one bit. Provided I don't lie in the sun for four hours on my first day on the beach, I turn the colour of toasted white bread fairly easily. :p

      OK, I'll watch out for Sox pix on Twitter! ^^

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    2. Yes, quotes will help a lot. ;)

      Not to insult you on the tan. Too many people I know complain that they don't tan. I enjoy it, but hate the tan lines. Looking forward to my tropical trip in autumn where I hope to get a good tan. You should do a before and after pic of your skin. Just an arm would do. :D

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    3. South Africans tend to have a "farmer's tan" - everything outside the T-shirt is nut brown, everything under the T-shirt is white. :D

      I'll see if I can do a wrist with watch and wrist with tan lines shot. ^^

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  21. Rurousha,
    Bon voyage!! Have a wonderful wonderful tripe!
    I am looking at your photos admiringly! How beautiful your hometown is!! I do hope someday I visit Whale Coast and enjoy Whale Viewing.
    I have been very much traumatic about whaling since I watched whaling in news when I was a little child. We are doomed to take lives of other living beings. We have to try not to give pain or fear to them as much as possible.
    Rurousha,I miss you in February!
    keiko

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    1. Thanks, Keiko-san! The Western Cape is the most beautiful place in the world, but of course I'd say that about my furusato! :) I hope I can bring back many stories and photos to share with you.

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  22. Bon Voyage!!

    Have a good time with your family and enjoy your holiday to the fullest!!
    Your country looks so beautiful! Thank you for sharing those wonderful photos with us.

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    1. Thanks, Sapphire! I leave on Tuesday, and I'm beginning to get impatient. I'm definitely getting that holiday feeling now ... ;)

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  23. I know you are looking forward to meet your mother or country. Enjoy reunion.
    By the way, it's sad about the veldt fires in Western Cape. It takes a very long long time to recover fynbos I think. Fire is dreadful.In Japan there is a proverb like you know "earthquake,thunder,fire and father" are dreadful.
    For grass fires, three hundred firefighters prepare carefully and they pray festival's safety.
    Have a safe travel!

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    1. Thanks, Sarah! I've watched the Cape's mountains burn so many times, and every time it was caused by human negligence. That makes me very angry and very sad.

      Fortunately Kleinmond's fynbos is still waiting for me in its full summer glory. Happiness! :)

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  24. I know a "farmer's tan". We use the same expression in Canada. But we also have a "driver's tan". When one side is darker than the other. ;)

    Looking forward to seeing the wrist tan lines. ^^

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    1. Waaa! Driver's tan! Yup, in South Africa we drive on the left side of the road, so our right hand/arm is darker, because it's always hanging out of the wide open* window. I have more sun spots on my right hand than my left. (Ja, I have many sun spots. We don't wear sun hats and sun visors and gloves and parasols in South Africa. Heh heh.)

      * Car air conditioning in South Africa = wide open window with dust, hippo dung and hijackers blowing in. :p

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  25. Have an amazing time! Enjoy the South African sun for me while my turn comes.
    Make sure to eat heaps of the fruit before you get back to Japan. Live in the luxury!!! :D I would say I will do the same when I'm there, but the fact that 80% of my trip will be spent in the Okovango Swamps in Bostwana kinda kills that idea. So you have to enjoy it for me.

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    1. Dankie, Laurene! Ek begin mos nou uitsien na hierdie spulletjie! :)

      I'll eat mountains of grapes, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, litchis, avocadoes, guavas, figs, berries, melon, watermelon, mangos, papayas, dates, granadillas, loquats, kumquats, marulas ... ag, sommer turskvye ook! :)

      Full report to follow when I get back! ^^

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    2. Eina. Ek kan nie meer Afrikaans spel nie! Turksvye. :)

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