Plum blossoms at Kameido Tenjin

Just to prove that I've really returned to Tokyo – and to get back into a Japan frame of mind – and after all this is a blog about Japan ...

Where wôs I? I've got jet lag. I can't concentrate.

Just to prove that I've really returned to Tokyo, I went to Kameido Tenjin to immerse myself in the fragrance of plum blossoms. That's the best thing about plum blossoms: unlike their famous cherry cousins, they have a sweet scent.

Plum blossoms at Kameido Tenjin. Click on the photos to see bigger versions.

Long before frivolous cherry blossoms took centre stage, the shy plum blossom was the most highly revered flower in Japan. The Man'yōshū¹ contains 113 poems about plum blossoms; cherry blossoms enjoy far fewer mentions.

A plum blossom is a symbol of beauty and virtue in women. Traditionally, girls were taught to be pure and noble as plum blossoms, and to stand able and proud despite all adversities. The link between the blossom, purity and strength is probably due to its blooming period: in winter, often at the coldest time² of the year, in the midst of snow.

Since it's believed that the plum tree protects you against evil, it's traditionally planted in the north-east of the garden, because evil is believed to come from that direction.

There's a Noh play called Umegae (梅枝, plum branch) about a travelling priest who visits the town of Sumiyoshi. He stops at a house where he sees many splendid dancing costumes. When he asks about their origin, he's told that they were left behind by a dancer named Fuji, who was killed by a rival. The priest feels sorry for Fuji and recites Buddhist prayers for his soul; then the dancer's wife appears as a spirit who performs a classic dance called saibara (催馬楽) for the priest. All this takes place in an idyllic garden where bush warblers sing in plum trees.

Chapter 32 of The Tale of Genji is also called Umegae.  Here's a print by Utagawa Kuniyoshi depicting this specific story:

I've written several posts about Kameido Tenjin as well as the scholar Sugawara no Michizane, who's enshrined here. Here’s some of them:

Sugawara no Michizane

A bullfinch for good luck

Wisteria at Kameido Tenjin

I went to view plum blossoms on Monday. It was too early to enjoy the full spectacle, but several trees are in full bloom. I predict that the blossoms will be at their best this coming weekend, if you want to toddle over. You can check the progress of the blossoms at this site.

Notes
1) The Man'yōshū  (万葉集, Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves) is the oldest existing collection of Japanese poetry, compiled in the 8th century.
2) I confirm that it's freezing in Tokyo, especially compared to a southern summer. It was 38 degrees Celsius when I left South Africa. I'm suffering, people, I'm suffering.

Approaching the shrine

A trio of Tokyo icons: torii, plum blossoms, Sky Tree

The trellis to the left is a wisteria trellis. It will bloom in April.

Kameido's famous drum bridge with plum branches in the foreground

Rare yellow plum blossoms. Edit added 1 March: Not plum blossoms, but a flower
called ロウバイ or winter sweet. Thanks, Kaori! (See comments below.)

Kameido's omikuji (fortune papers) are pink.

I took this photo for the plum tree next to the shrine. Promise.

I took this photo for the plum trees, too. Promise.

I took this photo for the plum tree. Promise. It's just accidentally out of focus.

I took this photo for the plum ... Oh, never mind.